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Now that the jet stream of tourism has been stanchedlike blood from a wound, history's monumentslie quiet as a postcard on a desk:Coliseum-as-cow-pasture, its ivory crowngrandstanding between those horse-drawn wagonsand shepherdesses dazed in a wood of columnsof Pinelli's vedute romane. Today, the selfiesself-medicate. Echo of lion's roar and martyr's cryare all you can make out against this riddle of sky.The future is a phone call that won't quite go through.