Last year I wrote a personalized survey of New York restaurants in this space; I hope it was helpful to some and not painful to anyone. This year, without much repetition, I will give a brief update on the ever changing scene. Probably anyone coming to the meetings has a local colleague who can supply any needed advice; for what it's worth, here goes.
Arm yourself with a copy of the Zagat survey, a compendium of consumer evaluations, hardly the revealed truth but packed with useful information including a ballpark figure of cost. The Transmedia card is still a useful way to keep down costs through the range of better restaurants, though its use is dwindling as economic times improve.
Most of the established “greats” are still there and need little note here. Three-star chefs from France are currently visiting three top spots—Restaurant Daniel, Bouley, and Aureole—and working magic in their kitchens. The tragic death this year of Gilbert LeCoze, who changed the way fish is cooked, is softened by the continuation of the superb staff at Le Bernardin. At the moment the most sought-after reservation is at Gramercy Tavern; Tom Collecchio, formerly at the defunct Mondrian, is paired with Danny Meyer of Union Square Cafe fame in this new spot. Meyer, leading the new generation of restaurateurs, is trying to keep a grip as the flood rises (New York is a fickle town), so if you miss it this trip, the restaurant will be around and probably be even better after weathering the storm. Meanwhile, don't neglect Meyer's other “star,” Union Square Cafe, where chef Michael Romano keeps an exciting menu going; try Saturday brunch after a visit to the Union Square Green Market. Not far away is Gotham Barand Grill, as well as the underappreciated An American Place.
Adventurous entrepreneurs are pouring money into the Flatiron district, where several new places have opened. To me, the best new place there is C.T., named for chef/owner Claude Troisgros, scion of the famed Roanne restaurant; he has spent time in Brazil, and the effects run through the menu. Two other new entries, Bola and Campagna, were disappointing, but apparently only to me, as both are quite crowded. Two places, one Latin American—Patria—and the other Japanese—Nobu—the latter located in Tribeca, are both the unique creations of charismatic chefs interpreting their native cuisines.
Strangely, I cannot summon up any noteworthy additions to the overabundance of Italian restaurants, but recent visits to both Arqua and Follonico assure me of no lack in this realm. A spate of new steakhouses have opened recently, but I am of little help in assessing them.
As ever, Chinatown, now extending north of Canal Street, is always a welcome place to experiment without cleaning out the wallet. Vietnamese places have been opening, some on their own, some in combination with Chinese cuisine, and are well worth trying. Other ethnic restaurants are also a good buy; expect to see an expanding array of East Asian, Subcontinental, and North African places sprouting up. At the moment, the best regional food is to be found in the neighborhoods of Brooklyn and Queens.
Just a few names, mostly familiar, to keep in mind: Savoy, La Metairie, Arcadia, Alison on Dominick, Mesa Grill, JoJo, Periyali, Arizona 206.
H.B.