San Francisco is a “restaurant town.” Here dining out is a major form of entertainment, contemporary commentary, and aesthetic experience. Restaurants themselves are in constant flux, opening and failing, rising meteorically and plummeting, endlessly experimenting with ingredients, service, ambiance, and location. Restaurant goers rush to patronize the currently trendy place, which soon is booked for weeks or months ahead. Bookings at the best remain hard to obtain. In the list that follows are most of the Best, including the two Very Best (Superstars), a selection of the Best of the Rest, and a sprinkling of San Francisco's fine ethnic spots. It is wise, and on weekends imperative, to book ahead. Prices indicate approximate range for main course and dessert, possibly with a small salad, but not including wine, tax (8.75%), or tip. (Note: there is no VAT in the United States, nor is service usually included, except at times for a large group. For expectable good service you should leave a 12–15% tip. For service that is below par, leave less; for service that makes your evening memorable, leave more).
A note on “California cuisine”: This is the most popular basic approach to fine food preparation here and is generally the style of the restaurants listed, unless stated otherwise. It has itself given rise to many variations, as represented in the list below. “California cuisine” emphasizes the freshness of ingredients, light, low-fat sauces, artistic presentation, and an almost expressionistic creativity in combining ingredients you might never even fantasize would work together.
Acquerello. 1722 Sacramento Street between Van Ness and Polk, 567–5432, $23–$49. Gian Carlo is the best host in town. For many, Acquerello is the best nouvelle Italian restaurant in the area. Also the finest Italian wine list, emphasizing quality rather than famous names.
Alain Rondelli. 126 Clement Street near 2nd Avenue, 387–0408, $23–$45. French, new, great success.
Boulevard. 1 Mission Street near Embarcadero, 543–6084, $15–$35. The latest rage, so reservations are very difficult; allow 2–4 weeks for choice seating.
Chez Panisse. 1517 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley, 510–548–5525, $35–$65. One of the most famous restaurants in the nation and deservedly so.
Ernie's. 847 Montgomery Street, 397–5969, $30–$70. One of the city's oldest and finest; elegant dining. Formal, impeccable service but not stuffy. A favorite. Continental.
Green's. At Fort Mason (Building A), Buchanan at Marina Boulevard, 771–6222. San Francisco's famous vegetarian restaurant. Definitely not drab; they do amazing things with meatless dishes. Very popular. Reserve early. Moderate.
Harris'. 2100 Van Ness, 673–1888. The city's poshest steak house. Moderately expensive.
Hayes Street Grill. 320 Hayes Street, 863–5545, $16–$38. One of the great seafood restaurants of the city and a favorite of restaurant goers.
La Folie. 2316 Polk Street at Green, 776–5577, $30–$57. Deceptively simple storefront setting hides superb, colorful French cuisine. One of the best chefs in the city.
Lark Creek Inn. 234 Magnolia, Larkspur, Marin County, 924–7766, $21–$34. Charming location in an old house at creekside. Upscale rendition of traditional American dishes by one of the country's celebrated chefs.
Postrio. 545 Post Street, 776–7825, expensive. California style. Theater district. Locals sit at the bar to solve the problem of scarce reservations.
The Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton Hotel. Stockton Street between Pine and California (on top of tunnel), 296–7465, $31–$55. Super-elegant hotel setting with service and food to match. Unlike their European counterparts, U.S. hotels are not usually associated with fine dining rooms. This one breaks the pattern.
Square One. 190 Pacific, 788–1110, $25–$40. Exciting, innovative Mediterranean creations. Always something different. Zesty, colorful, enjoyable.
Stars. 555 Golden Gate Avenue between Van Ness and Polk, 861–4344. One of the fashionable places to see and be seen, yet a leader in the “California” style.
Fleur de Lys. 777 Sutter Street at Jones, 673–7779. One of the two Superstar restaurants. Superb, creative chef; exotic dining room; impeccable, knowledgeable service—a total dining experience. Typical of their thoughtfulness is the fine gourmet vegetarian menu. Reservations at choice hours are often booked three or more weeks ahead, so write or call when you read this if you want a booking. It is worth it.
Masa's. 648 Bush Street at Stockton, 989–7154. The other Superstar San Francisco French-style restaurant. The chef is marvelous. The dining room is unpretentious but elegant. Unfortunately, staff are at times a bit overimpressed with themselves (not always deservedly), and customer service then is lacking or stuffy. But if you want the very best the city has to offer, the two Superstars must be on your list. Choice reservations and weekends are booked weeks in advance. Very expensive.
Fringale. 570 4th Street between Bryant and Brannan, 543–0573, $15–$31. Small, high-energy bistro with wonderful preparations in a French/Continental style.
Gaylord's. Ghirardelli Square, 771–8822. North Indian Mogul dishes in elegant setting overlooking the Bay.
Mandarin. At Ghirardelli Square, 673–8812, $16–$32. The old queen of upscale Chinese restaurants, located in one of S.F.'s most appealing shopping areas.
Mayflower Lounge. 6255 Geary at 27th Avenue, 387–8338, $8–$25. Upscale Chinese.
Oritalia. 1915 Fillmore, 346–1333. Representative of S.F.'s high-energy bistros. Combines Asian and Italian influences. Go there with a group: the style is to order many small-portion plates and share. A place for fun, noise, good food, friendship.
Elite Cafe. 2049 Fillmore, 346–8668. S.F.'s first Cajun restaurant and perhaps still the best. An excited young crowd renders a high-energy atmosphere. Classic New Orleans dishes and seafood bar.
David's Delicatessen. Geary Street across from the Geary Theater. S.F.'s kosher Jewish delicatessen. The fresh rye bread is to die for. Inexpensive.
McCormick and Kuleto. 900 North Point (Ghirardelli Square), 929–1730. Great crab cakes and salads. Moderately expensive.
Emporio Armani Express. 1 Grand Avenue at O'Farrell, 677–9010, $10–$17. New, small, in an unlikely location in a stylish clothing store.
Empress Court. 433 Airport Boulevard, Burlingame, south of San Francisco airport on the Peninsula, 348–1122, $13–$32. Excellent Cantonese. Beautiful views over the Bay; the landing patterns at the airport are especially gorgeous at sunset. Moderate.
Brennan's. 4th Street at University Avenue, Berkeley. No reservations required or accepted. Inexpensive. Basic Americana: roast beef, turkey, ham.
Tadich Grill. 240 California Street, 391–2373. $14–$43. Almost 150 years old. No elegance here but good seafood and old San Francisco tradition.
Angkor Palace (Cambodian). 1769 Lombard Street, 931–2830. Beautiful, light cooking in a traditional Khmer dining room. Moderate.
Ginger Island (Pan Asian). 1820 Fourth Street, Berkeley. 510–644–0444. Spicy and good. Moderate.
Helmand (Afghani). 430 Broadway, 362–0641. Fine representative of the style.
Lichee Garden (Cantonese). 1416 Powell, 397–2290. Special house roast chicken, pea vines, salt-and-pepper shrimp.
Flower Lounge (Hong Kong). 51 Millbrae Avenue, Millbrae, 692–6666. Worth a trip to the Peninsula. The best Hong Kong style restaurant. There are two locations: go to this one.
Yank Sing (Dim Sum). 427 Battery, 362–1640. Fabulous dumplings and other tea lunch delicacies in civilized surroundings.
Ton Kiang (Hakka). 3148 Geary Boulevard, 752–4440. Salt-baked chicken with dipping sauces, fish ball soup, fresh vegetables, spicy bean curd.
Oriental Pearl (Cantonese/Chiu Chow). 760/778 Clay Street, 433–1817 Upscale dining room for Chinatown. Lovely food.
Maharani (Indian). 1122 Post Street, 775–1988. Traditional seating at low tables, luxuriously draped, as well as Western seating.
Kyoya (Japanese). 2 New Montgomery, 392–8600. Exquisite and very expensive sushi at the sushi bar; excellent and moderate Japanese food in the dining room.
Sanraku and Four Seasons at Sanraku (Japanese). 704 Sutter, 771–0803. Order an extraordinary kaiseki-style meal at the Four Seasons ($35) or drop in for excellent Japanese food next door.
Timo at the Zanzibar (Spanish Tapas). 842 Valencia, 647–0558. Imaginative tapas at a resonant Mission district bar.
Golden Turtle (Vietnamese). 2211 Van Ness, 441–4419. Succulent grilled beef and quail, crisp raw vegetables, piquant sauces, all eaten together.
Cafe Marimba (Mexican). 2317 Chestnut Street, 776–1506. Stylish regional food in a dining room filled with folk art.
Not the place for high cuisine, but no trip to San Francisco is complete without a visit. The restaurants on the wharf itself run to a type: fresh-caught seafood in simple, busy surroundings with common-man service. Within a block or two are many similar establishments.
Two miles of wonderful meandering lie in store for you along Clement Street. Small restaurants from all over the world with a heavy Asian emphasis. Some owners have small displays of family treasures from their native lands. Non-English languages spoken. This is the area to have a dining adventure and to discover a wonderful little restaurant that no one told you about.