Manhattan sometimes seems to have more restaurants than people, yet the area around the Waldorf can be a disappointment when the quality of the cuisine is considered. Still, two of New York's finest establishments are within walking distance (and considering the difficulty finding a taxi at dinnertime, that is a plus). Greg Kunz's elegant restaurant Lespinasse (2 East 55th Street, 339–6719) serves complex and subtle French food with Asian accents. The service is elegant and the ambiance lovely — and superbly quiet, appropriate for a leisurely, special evening. But very expensive!
Lutèce, at 249 East 50th Street (752–2225), has recently been redecorated. Since André Soltner retired, his cochef, the brilliant Eberhard Müller, has taken this “haut bistro” to new horizons, adding to the old splendors some exciting new tastes. The service remains perfect—attentive and comforting—and the ambiance happily quiet. Müllers fish tasting menu is a rare treat, and leaves diners feeling “unstuffed” and ready for a delicate or rich dessert. While Lutèce is expensive, the prices are not as stratospheric as at the other giants. If you are lucky—or are willing to eat at ten-thirty or even later—Bouley (165 Duane Street down in Tribeca, 608–3852), though very noisy and rather impersonal, serves food that many consider close to paradise. If you are willing to go to Tribeca and are devoted to Japanese food, Nobu (105 Hudson Street, 219–0500)—named after Nobu Matsuhisa, the great Los Angeles chef—is a must. His tasting menus are sublime, and the sushi and sashimi are prime examples of the art.
The finest Italian restaurant in town is San Domenico (240 Central Park South, 265–5959), the exquisite Bolognese cuisine is imaginative and refreshing, the service gently correct and efficient.
There is even a prix fixe menu that is a real bargain, but if your eyes, and your mouth, stray—well!
For really good dining that takes into account economic reality, there are many options. In the neighborhood, a consistent favorite is Chin Chin (216 East 49th Street, 888–4555)—inventive and wonderful Chinese (with an American accent), great service, sophisticated ambiance. Sushisay (38 East 51st Street, 755–1780), easily the best Japanese in Manhattan, offers pristine fish, sophisticated decor, and knowledgeable service. Dock's Oyster Bar (633 Third Avenue near 40th Street, 986–8080) is a crowded seafood place where the customers and the fish are really jumping; the prices are right and the drinks potent. The best steak house in the area is Sparks (210 East 46th Street, 687–4855)—prime steaks, lobsters so big you can't believe your eyes, and a really first-class wine list.
Further afield, there are three Italian trattorias worth visiting. Cafe Trevi (1570 First Avenue at 81st Street, 249–0400) is a home away from home for regulars and new patrons alike. Primo, the owner, and his staff supply fine Northern Italian food and excellent wines. Not as comfortable but still serving wonderful, imaginative food is Sette Mezzo (969 Lexington Avenue at 70th Street, 472–0400). A newcomer, created by Nicola of Tempo (30 East 29th Street, 532–8125), I Trulli (122 East 27th Street, 481–7372) is even better then its well-loved “mother,” serving Apulian specialties as well as other Mediterranean delights.
Peter Hoffman's Savoy (70 Prince Street at Crosby, 219–8570—right behind New York's premier food emporium Dean and Deluca, is always rewarding—American food creatively spiced with Mediterranean and Near Eastern ideas; a simple menu, using local products but enough to delight all parties; an innovative wine list; and efficient, pleasant service. Worth the trip. Probably the best-kept secret in seafood establishments is Wilkinson's Seafood Cafe (1573 York Avenue at 83rd Street, 535–5454)—imaginative preparations which succeed, sparkling fresh fish, delightfully quiet, attentive service, and catering to any particular dietary or taste request.
For first-rate Chinese food without traveling to Chinatown, the bright and comfortable Cafe Evergreen (1288 First Avenue at 69th Street, 744–3266) offers attentive service and a well-stocked bar, as well as an enormous range of specialties.
Now, for lunch, when you tire of Oscar's and want some real New York deli, Stars (593 Lexington Avenue, just north of the Waldorf) is the local answer; wonderful corned beef, pastrami, pickles, and pickled tomatoes. Down the street from the Waldorf, at the Beekman Tower Hotel, is a pleasant lunch place with good food and service: Zephyr Grill (First Avenue at 49th Street, 223–4200). Also within walking distance, and far above average, is Colors (237 Park Avenue, 594–5934)—crowded at lunch, quiet at dinner, and featuring a new chef with fresh ideas.
For those planning an evening at Lincoln Center, the problem is avoiding the trap: captive audiences are seldom well treated. Three exceptions: Gabriel's, a Tuscan place (11 West 60th Street, 956–4600), comes through. Picholine (35 West 64th Street, 724–8585) serves first-rate southern French food in a quiet, attractive setting. If you have Metropolitan Opera tickets, you can reserve a table at the Grand Tier Restaurant for before or during the opera (799–3400)—very good food, and you don't have to rush. All three establishments require reservations, some long in advance, but there is always the possibility of a cancellation, so call.
And if you need further suggestions about where to eat, the most reliable reference is the Zagat Survey; its critics are the fussy customers who eat out in New York.
Muriel Laskin