Philadelphia has often gotten unfair press. W. C. Fields, a famous resident, once quipped, “First prize, a week in Philadelphia; second prize, two weeks in Philadelphia.” On his tombstone, Fields had written, “On the whole, I'd rather be in Philadelphia.” So why does a New Yorker with an office two blocks from the Metropolitan Museum of Art and surrounded by fine restaurants long for a trip to Philadelphia (even without the meetings being there)?
Because Philadelphia has world-class museums, historical sites, and some fabulous and unique food. It has both my favorite Chinese restaurant and the best science museum I have ever been to.
Last time the APsaA met in Philadelphia, we were out on the edge of town on City Line Avenue (which is quite near the fabulous Barnes Collection, a twenty-minute drive from downtown). This time we are right in Center City with easy access to all that Philadelphia has to offer.
For those coming from the Washington-Boston corridor, the best entrance to Philadelphia is Amtrak's 30th Street Station. For fun, indulge in the new Acela, which has a laptop plug at each seat (showing my priorities). The station, which houses the commuter line as well, is a lively, practical part of the community, with good coffee, fruit juices, and snacks and a good introduction to the city.
Where to start? Perhaps the Philadelphia Museum of Art, which has much more to it than the beautiful steps overlooking City Hall famous as the setting for Rocky I. The museum should not be missed. It has one of the world's great collections of art, particularly the Annenberg Collection. Then consider the Rodin Museum and maybe a trip to the Barnes just outside the city.
The University of Pennsylvania Museum has the third best Egyptology collection (the others being the British Museum and the Cairo Museum). The first computer, ENIAC, is on display at Penn's Moore School of Engineering. It's worth seeing to realize that this room-size monstrosity with less computing power than the computer chip in a digital watch started it all.
Now to my favorite, the Franklin Institute, the most wonderful science museum I have ever explored. This is fitting, since Benjamin Franklin is synonymous with both Philadelphia and science. A Fellow of the Royal Academy, he combined statesmanship and inventiveness, known for theoretical explorations into electricity and the invention of bifocals, the Franklin stove, and the Franklin press, among myriad other accomplishments. The institute also has a great gift shop, where I often stock up on presents for kids. Next door to the institute don't miss the Please Touch Museum, especially if you have brought children along.
Let's hope it is a beautiful day, as is likely in May, because one needs to walk around to explore the city itself. From the newest postmodern classics to the restored Georgian, Colonial, Revolutionary, and Federal buildings, these need to be enjoyed on foot. Take a walk around gracious Rittenhouse Square.
Photo by Bob Krist for the Greater Philadelphia Tourism marketing Corporation
Stroll the restored Society Hill, with its cafes and boutiques. Walk around Waterfront Park and imagine the river as the center of commerce as it once was. Until 1890, Philadelphia was the largest city in America. Until World War II, its port was the most active in the United States.
Most importantly, take time to visit (or revisit) Revolutionary Philadelphia. See the Liberty Bell, walk through Independence Hall, visit the Betsy Ross house. You may have done it as a child, but go back now as an adult and think about the courage and vision those men and women had. Looking back, we can see their decision as wise, but looking forward in 1776, the outcome was decidedly less clear.
Philadelphia is the home to wonderful music, theater, and dance. Check the schedule for the Philadelphia Symphony Orchestra in its brand-new home in the Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts. The recently opened Hal Prince Music Theater showcases new musical theater. Several of its shows have drawn audiences from New York City.
Hungry? Food in Philadelphia ranges from Georges Perriers Le Bec Fin, the internationally acclaimed formal French restaurant, to the famous Philly steaks. I will leave the fancy restaurants to others. When I am in Philadelphia (and sometimes when I am only passing by) I always go the Sang Kee Peking Duck House (51 North 12th St., 215-922-3930), in the tiny, two-block Chinatown, to eat and then get wonton soup to take home as well. All of their food is good, but their wontons and steamed dumplings are especially memorable. The restaurant has expanded, and vinegar and hot pepper oil are no longer routinely found on the table. Be sure to order both. Fish the wontons out of the soup and dip them into the two condiments.
Can one visit Philadelphia without tasting a Philly cheesesteak or seeing Italian South Philly? For the best, try Pat's King of Steaks (1237 East Passyunk Ave., 215-468-1546) at Passyunk between 8th and 9th Streets. Order it “American with” and ask for lots of ketchup. If you are serious about doing a tasting, try its main rival, Gino's Steak (1219 South 9th St., 215-389-0659), diagonally across the street.
Sandra Cohen, M.D., is a psychoanalyst in New York and a member of the New York Psychoanalytic Society. She is a member of the Committee on Outreach for Scientific and Educational Programs.