Eating Well in Denver with a Variety of Choices

Though we're not New York, New Orleans, or San Francisco—nobody comes here just for the food—you can eat well here within walking distance of the Marriott City Center, at 17th Street and California Street, where you will be staying.

On one block alone, Larimer between 14th and 15th, there are several restaurants you might try. Rioja, 1431 Larimer (303-820-2282), has wonderful “contemporary” food. Since it is noisy, ask for a table in the back room and reserve two weeks in advance. At Bistro Vendome (303-825-3232), just across the street at 1424 Larimer, it is easier to get a table on short notice. It is run by the same young chef, Jennifer Jasinski, only in a Parisian mode. Tamayo, 1400 Larimer (720-946-1433), offers dining on the roof al fresco, a good choice in June, and serves beautifully prepared and presented modern Mexican food.

Even closer to the hotel, outstanding Italian food served by knowledgeable wait-staff in most appealing surroundings may be found at Panzano, 17th and Champa Street (303-296-3525).

Kevin Taylor Restaurant at 14th and Arapahoe (303-820-2600) offers a three-course prix-fixe menu at $45. Some people feel this is Denver's finest restaurant. I prefer Mizuna, at 7th and Grant Street (303-832-3532), which requires a short cab ride. For either of these, reserve well in advance and plan to spend some relaxed time. The servers are knowledgeable about food and wine. Frank Bonanno owns Mizuna and also Luca d'Italia, another good choice, around the corner (303-832-6600).

If you feel adventurous, Shorty Zietz's Buckhorn Exchange, 1000 Osage Street (303-534-9505), is Denver's oldest restaurant and has liquor license number one to prove it. The atmosphere is colorful and historic with shaggy animal heads and rifles hanging from the walls. Here you can try Rocky Mountain oysters (don't ask) or rattlesnake. It's not too far but best to take a taxi.

Further afield, requiring a knowledgeable friend with a car, is the Fort, modeled after Bent's Fort, an historic frontier trading post, Morrison at the intersection of Highways 285 and 8 (303-697-4771). Dinner only. From its perch in the foothills, the Denver lights sparkle like jewels at night (beginning about nine in late June). The Fort's buffalo steaks, ordered medium rare, may rival Morton's New York strip, but that's like comparing apples and oranges. Morton's New York strip has no peer, 17th and Wynkoop (303-825-3353).

There are several other steak houses to choose from not far from the meetings, including The Denver Chop House, 19th and Wynkoop (303-296-0800); Sullivan's, 18th and Wazee (303-295-2664); Capital Grille, 1450 Larimer (303-539-2500); The Palm, 17th and Lawrence (303-825-7256); and Ruth's Chris, 15th and Market (303-446-2233).

Here in Denver, we have more Mexican food than you have at home, unless you're from San Diego or El Paso, but few such establishments are worth going out of your way for. My favorite, El Taco de Mexico, 7th and Santa Fe Drive (303-623-3926), happens to be not far from the meetings, but you'll need a cab. I heard about it from house staff of a nearby hospital 25 years ago. This bright yellow corner diner where you eat at the counter or carry food to one of the few tables has been consistently excellent. Try the chili relleno burrito smothered in green chili with extra cheese or a taco plate, three soft corn tacos filled with marinated pork, tongue, or cheek meat, a little lighter for a midday meal with no time for a siesta. Very inexpensive, no reservations taken.

Watercourse Foods is an inexpensive vegetarian restaurant not far from the meetings. The atmosphere is funky and the kids that cook, serve, and eat there are friendly although exotic, heavily pierced, and tattooed. Get directions or a cab to 837 17th Avenue at Emerson Street (303-832-7313). Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served.

For a quick, inexpensive breakfast or lunch without reservations and within walking distance, I suggest Zaidy's Deli at 15th and Lawrence, or The Delectable Egg at 1625 Court Place or 1642 Market. Mangia bene.